General Tips - Peco N Platform Edges
There are a number of tricks to using the Peco N gauge platform edges that are not mentioned in the instructions.
Curved Platforms
The easiest way to bend the platform edges is to first make a large number of cuts in the back of the top and bottom flanges using a small saw. These need to go most of the way down to the visible part of the edging strip, and should be 5-10 mm apart depending on the curvature required. You need to be careful at the joins, since the plastic is thicker and less flexible. More and closer-spaced cuts are required here, though they cannot be as deep. Obviously, straight sections of platform do not need to be cut at all.
Supporting the Platform Surface
The instructions recommend building internal walls to support the platform surface, but I find this to be too fragile. You will see the problem the first time you lean on the platform or attempt to drill into it. I prefer to use a solid piece of timber as the platform core. 11mm dressed pine mouldings work well here, although they are just a little too thick. You either need to plane them down by about 0.5mm or raise the platform edges by the same amount with some thin plastic or card packing. The top of the timber should be level with top of the flanges that will support the surface.
Platform Surface Material
On different layouts I have used plain card, the textured card from the Metcalfe platform kits and Slaters plastic paving sheets. All work, but all have some problems to contend with. Cutting the surface to exactly the right shape for a curved platform is difficult - I always need to use some putty to fill occasional gaps, and this can have a destructive effect on card. I have also heard of modellers using plaster as the platform surface, but haven't tried it .
Platform Heights
This is a somewhat contentious issue. In the UK, the platform is supposed to be 3 feet above rail height (sometimes a bit less on older lines). The platform edges are 12mm high, while Peco track is 3.5-4mm, giving a platform height of about 4 feet. This will vary of you use underlay. Some modellers cut off the base of the platform edges to lower them or raise the track level. I actually find that the high platforms look better because of the wide gap required between the platform and the trains, especially on curves. Since layouts are generally viewed from above, if you use the correct 3 foot platform height then you can see half way down the coach bogies. This looks more like a European station with its very low platforms. The higher platforms give the correct sight line to the coach underframe and compensate for this problem. In the end it is a matter of taste - what looks right for you.
Painting the Platforms
The platform surface forms a large area of fairly uniform colour. If you simply paint them one colour then they tend to look false and artificial. Take a look at any real concrete, asphalt or paved surface and you will see all sorts of subtle variations. I suggest painting the surface in a suitable grey, then drybrush on a different shade of grey, then a bit of brown (either drybrushed or a very thin, dilute wash). You can even wipe this off again, since enough will remain to provide a bit of variation. Try not to overdo it.
The easiest way to bend the platform edges is to first make a large number of cuts in the back of the top and bottom flanges using a small saw. These need to go most of the way down to the visible part of the edging strip, and should be 5-10 mm apart depending on the curvature required. You need to be careful at the joins, since the plastic is thicker and less flexible. More and closer-spaced cuts are required here, though they cannot be as deep. Obviously, straight sections of platform do not need to be cut at all.
Supporting the Platform Surface
The instructions recommend building internal walls to support the platform surface, but I find this to be too fragile. You will see the problem the first time you lean on the platform or attempt to drill into it. I prefer to use a solid piece of timber as the platform core. 11mm dressed pine mouldings work well here, although they are just a little too thick. You either need to plane them down by about 0.5mm or raise the platform edges by the same amount with some thin plastic or card packing. The top of the timber should be level with top of the flanges that will support the surface.
Platform Surface Material
On different layouts I have used plain card, the textured card from the Metcalfe platform kits and Slaters plastic paving sheets. All work, but all have some problems to contend with. Cutting the surface to exactly the right shape for a curved platform is difficult - I always need to use some putty to fill occasional gaps, and this can have a destructive effect on card. I have also heard of modellers using plaster as the platform surface, but haven't tried it .
Platform Heights
This is a somewhat contentious issue. In the UK, the platform is supposed to be 3 feet above rail height (sometimes a bit less on older lines). The platform edges are 12mm high, while Peco track is 3.5-4mm, giving a platform height of about 4 feet. This will vary of you use underlay. Some modellers cut off the base of the platform edges to lower them or raise the track level. I actually find that the high platforms look better because of the wide gap required between the platform and the trains, especially on curves. Since layouts are generally viewed from above, if you use the correct 3 foot platform height then you can see half way down the coach bogies. This looks more like a European station with its very low platforms. The higher platforms give the correct sight line to the coach underframe and compensate for this problem. In the end it is a matter of taste - what looks right for you.
Painting the Platforms
The platform surface forms a large area of fairly uniform colour. If you simply paint them one colour then they tend to look false and artificial. Take a look at any real concrete, asphalt or paved surface and you will see all sorts of subtle variations. I suggest painting the surface in a suitable grey, then drybrush on a different shade of grey, then a bit of brown (either drybrushed or a very thin, dilute wash). You can even wipe this off again, since enough will remain to provide a bit of variation. Try not to overdo it.